John Steinbeck famously wrote in his book "sea of cortes" about his privately chartered science expedition from California around cabo san lucas and north along the baja peninsula that the little place called “cabo san lucas” was little more than a bar with locals hanging around hoping someone would buy them a beer.
In less than a hundred years “cabo” as they call the whole cape section and all its golf courses, hotels and condos has grown, one could almost call it “cape condo“.
But the beauty of the land and kindness of the local people cannot be tarnished by this crass condo crisis. Many condos look like palaces and small utopias designed for tourists to get a few weeks of relaxation from the endless grind. Some of the architecture here is in a style and quality that is amazing. We have seen condos covered in sheets of onxy, crystalline and castlelike is the over all effect. grand pools and golf courses in a dessert where in the past locals could not afford a beer, now they drive sport utility trucks and shop at walmart and cosco just like americans in the north. The conundrum of growth in mexico reaches paradoxical extremes. Locals seem to agree, growth is good and bad.
chiclet gum selling momas begging outside of the high end malls where you can buy a harley motor bike or a rolex gold watch is an example of these extreems.
The cape if famously expensive and very limited for selection of fresh food, but we find endless ways to use, peppers, onions, cabbage, tomatoes, avocados, bananas, and limes. together with our dry stores, fresh tortillas and all the fish i can catch we are enjoying many fine meals.
Sailing has been good and bad too, everything. Sometimes motoring all day, sometimes sailing in warm winds that make it all worth while.
Family time has become our entertainment. Daily we make our meals, stories, games and songs.
on a bay called Los Frailes we met a nice fishing guide who was camping with his family. He and one of his sons could speak good English and we spent an evening by the campfire with them. the kids played games, flew kites and went swimming for most the next day. They gave us lots of fresh seafood including a huge piece of marlin. They were very kind and shared their views on progress in mexico.
We have met other sailors on our travels and friendships are quick and everyone gives advise and directions to favorite places and services.
One sailing family we met today had a little boy, he was only one and a half but leaf and him became friends. after we said goodbye he ran down the beach crying after us to say goodbye one last time and gave us a huge smile as we all waved back to him.
Fair winds and flat seas to all our family and friends.